My mom's family escaped the Burmese government in the 1980's, as did my girlfriend's family too. She went back a couple years ago and had some pretty amazing experiences. I want to go someday as well.
I wonder where on the train you were going? When I went in late 2005, I went to Yangon, Bagan, Mandalay and Inle Lake. I'm glad I had my mom there, cuz she can speak the language. It's a beautiful country, but so incredibly beat down by the awful military regime.
Stephanie, we were in Shan State going from Pyin Oo Lwin to Kyaukme. We even went over Goteik Bridge. We had some Burmese students acting as our tour guides. It was an incredible experience though - I love all the vendor at each stop coming right up to the windows to sell food. I had so much fun and got to see so much beautiful landscape. I agree though - the military has completely broken the country.